Road (and ode) to Hana

By CYNTHIA EE

It’s a gruelling drive to Maui’s eastern coastal town but the journey provides breathtaking sights and sounds of nature.
The road of life twists and turns and no two directions are ever the same. Yet our lessons come from the journey, not the destination.
– Don Williams, Jr, American novelist and poet
TRAVEL blogs on “Heavenly” Hana are all abuzz about the divine “journey” and driving experience. The scenic passage meanders through wayside waterfalls, bamboo forests and rugged coastlines before reaching the sleepy town with a population of less than 800 on the island of Maui, Hawaii.

Spectacular: Beautiful coastline along the Hana highway.

How could we miss it?

Our drive from Kahului to Hana spanned 83km and started off easy enough, with light traffic that thinned out as we drove past villages and along the coastline. The road then started to “twist and turn” with its 620 sharp curves, and narrowed with its 56 one-lane bridges.
The Hana highway has been described as precarious, dangerous and even treacherous, having claimed many lives.
Road etiquette guides published on the web offer advice on how to drive carefully, explore ethically and reach the destination safely. Certain sections along the Hana highway reminded me of Balik Pulau, Penang, via the trunk road, with its lush greenery, thick tropical vegetation and winding turns. But here’s where similarities end.

Enjoying the crsytal clear waters at Oheo Gulch.

Narrow roads flanked by hills and sharp cliffs coupled with blind corners made this a harrowing experience that had me clutching the edge of my seat and stepping on the imaginary brake (obviously I wasn’t driving). I was constantly reminded of George Strait’s song that the road less travelled is not for the faint of heart.
So, as they say, slow down, and smell the flowers. If it’s spring, there are plenty in bloom, from Plumeria to Heliconia and other exotic wildflowers. Small roadside stalls display these blooms along with tropical fruits, and you just need to pick your choice and drop your change into the collection box (many of these booths are unmanned).
The drone of cascading waterfalls can be heard along the journey, and guide maps will point out mile markers where it’s safe and appropriate to explore. Many of the lands are privately owned and off-limits to the public. Still many of the sights like waterfalls are just off the roads, and with the sun streaming down, we caught glimpses of colourful rainbows.
We made a stop at Kaeleku Cavern, located at mile marker 31, an underground cave formed by flowing lava. It’s located on private property and the owners provide self and guided tours throughout the day.

Exploring inside the lava tube at Kaeleku Cavern.

It’s a different experience underground, with cool and fresh air, stalactites and stalagmites as well as lava rock formations. Above ground, the garden has a nice picnic spot and a Red Ti Botanical maze, dubbed the first of its kind in the world.
Nearby is the Hale O Pi’ilani Heiau (pronounced hey-ou which means temple), the largest heiau in Hawaii and Polynesia which dates back to the 13th century where ancient ceremonies were held.
Located within the Kahanu National Botanical Garden, this massive, multi-terraced rectangular platform with a large black mound of lava rock measures 450ft (137m) long and 50ft (15m) high.
Waianapanapa State Park makes another good stop or even stay. Famous for its black sand beaches, the park has caves and tide pools for exploration. Another sight to behold is the blowhole, which sprouts geyser-like sprays of water through the lava hole with each pounding wave.

Trekking down to the ocean at Oheo Gulch.

Upon reaching the town of Hana, we found it close to empty, with few people visiting the small Tsunami museum. We stocked up on snacks and water at one of the two convenience stores, Hasegawa Store (souvenir buffs should get the “I survived the road to Hana” T-shirt).
We found the crowds converging at Hamoa beach. Dr Beach has named it one of the most beautiful beaches in America several times in a row. Swaying palms, powdery white sand and aqua green waters make this a perfect beach for winding down after a long arduous drive. What better way to end the day than lazing in a deck chair and watching the sun bid aloha to the sky....
The road trip to Hana, as I discovered, is indeed about the journey, as well as the destination.
We spent two nights in Hana and continued our journey along the Hana highway the next morning to Haleakala National Park’s Oheo Gulch, which means Seven Sacred Pools. Waterfalls cascaded into pools near the ocean. The road to Oheo Gulch was even more harrowing but in the early morning, traffic was light. We saw many trails that led to the ocean and waterfalls.

Hale O Pinilani Heiau is the largest ancient temple in Hawaii and Polynesia.

Getting there There is no direct flight from Malaysia to Maui, Hawaii. The fastest route is to fly into Honolulu (HNL) via Tokyo (NRT), and then take a domestic or interisland flight to Kahului (OGG). Hana is located on the eastern coastline of Maui and is accessible by rental car or guided tours.
Where to stay
Many bed and breakfast establishments offer reasonable accommodation. The most expensive lodging is the Hotel Hana Maui (prices range from US$360-800 per night).
The cabins at Waianapanapa State Park are a steal at US$60 per night but these are basic shelters – bring your own pillows and sheets. Still, being lulled to sleep by the waves of the ocean and waking up to bird songs sounds blissful! The cabins are popular and booking needs to be done as early as a year in advance.